This is the Klipper Config for my 300mm Voron 2.4. This is built out with everything I wanted to do, may add mods later, but as of now completely happy with it.
This is the real actual config that I run on my printer. This is the repository that is created from a push from my printer to share, but also backup in case of catastrophe. For the use cases of this printer and mods deployed, maybe of use to someone else whom has those mods. Use at your own risk.
- A printer that would catch me up to date on what's new and available tech wise as of early to mid 2023, superceding my old and retired Hypercube Evolution, another self built printer that was wholly sourced by yours truly.
- A printer that gets used for printing functional parts. I commonly print in ASA now and still PLA when it doesn't matter as much. I design most of what I consume, but occasionally will visit Printables, as well as share out my own designs there as well.
- Reliability, Repeatability, Usability & Print Quality - I don't necessarily care about absolute maximum print speed, but when I want a print, I want success.
This is a Voron 2.4R2 LDO kit built in early 2023. Additionally I used PIF for my parts,as my previous printer died, and I was always limited in ABS/ASA material. I cannot speak enough volumes about using the PIF program, as the comprehensiveness of understanding the parts you'll need, with your choice of mods & colors, to the beautiful quality of the prints made it a joy to build out this kit.
Here is a list of the final build & mods.
- Stealthburner with CW2 Toolhead - note the LDO kit comes with the latest pancake extruder motor as well as Bondtech gears.
- E3d Voron Revo - a slight variation of the revo with a Voron specific heat sink.
- Cartographer Eddy Current sensor w/ ADXL. This thing just works, replaced tap with a simpler toolhead, Input shaper graphs are now much much cleaner, especially y axis.
- Nevermore chamber filter, also part of the stock LDO kit. This works well on keeping my chamber temperatures constant and odor free, regulary at 60C after 20 minutes preheat for my ASA prints, and even 70C after 1 hour.
- Nozzle Scrubber was a drop dead simple install. Note my X width as built is the natural 300, but my Y is 309. Because of Stealthburner, had to do a final tweak of bed placement, but it works very well, and leaves me with a true 300x300 build area.
- Octopus Pro mainboard.
- Updated to a Rasberry Pi 5 with SSD Hat to get away from issues with SSD failures and also performance, this replaced a OrangePi4 LTS (was available in Covid Pandemic times...). Note the SSD hopefully is imune to having machine shut off without a proper shutdown (which you should always do anyways!). Hardwired 5v/5A supply to mains for Pi, rest down there is stock other than a nicer touch screen I had available. Note, had issues with FPS for crowsnest, so repurposed OrangePi to be just for camera.
- Crowsnest to a Logitech C920X webcam running off old OrangePi4 LTS. This should help unload the pi as the webcam is high bandwidth, so maybe onboard ADXL will work properly now, maybe...
- ADXL Input shaping now done via Cartographer Eddy Current probe
- A CanBus Toolhead board, the SB2209 from BigTreeTech. This aside from allowing me to go full umbilical that drives the extruder, heater, fans and SB neopixels is a nice looking option that I find really reliable. CanBus couldn't support the onboard ADXL chip, as it will be bandwidth limited, or is in my case, to only 60HZ, but everything else on the head (Extruder, Revo, Fans, Neopixels, Tap, w/ onboard temp sensor) has never failed me with the stock supply umbilical cable.
- Added 2 toolhead sensors, one below extruder teeth, one above. This was at the same time I added the Filametrix toolhead filament cutter in prep for a TurtleBox AMS system.
- Use Klippers adaptive meshing, works well
- Replaced stock wire nozzle scrubber with silicone brush (from Bambu A1), as old scrubber was kinda ineffective, and I needed to change for Cartographer probe anyways. Made my own version of macro to do it.
- Changed over to OrcaSlicer as main gcode generator, and made updates to better suit. Tuned up G32 to be a bit more efficient, ie only home x/y if not done already, don't rehome x/y, but only z post nozzle scrub. This version ensures to make bed heat to final temp at the start, extruder to start @ 150C for TAP/Cartographer max temp, then do the calibrate, then properly set and ensure the extruder and bed temps before proceeding.
- Added a ground wire from extruder motor to SB2209 generic ground pin, supposed to help prevent static discharge that would possible reset the board and cause intermittent failures. I've had a very occasional issue, mostly with the SB2240 version of the canbus board.
- Now using Filametrix filament cutting toolhead variant, just push a lever to cleanly cut filament below extruder gears. This is pre-preparation for BoxTurtle AMS, but also just useful. This also added a filament sensor above gears (currently use the 2 sensor variant, but it is listed as overkill for BoxTurtle, so will change back to single version).
- Sensorless X & Y homing, this guide made it a snap, and works excellently.
- Added in Cartographer software, and will soon add BoxTurtle AMS software also.
- The build was pretty flawless, as my bed has a very slight taco shape, but of only .14mm spread, more than acceptable. Took the time to go through the tuning guides first, so I had no issues with getting printing well almost from the start. This was in big part for 2 reasons, the LDO kit had everything needed, and the PIF parts had zero issues.
- The Discord server for VORON has sooo many helpful hints and people, use it whenever you get stuck!